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War Hero? Meet the Real John McCain:
North Vietnam's Go-To Collaborator

What actually happened in his POW camp that twisted John McCain and made him the unstable bully he is today? Was it abuse, as he claims, or was it the fact that he collaborated extensively and has to cover up? In this EXCLUSIVE expose, Vietnam war historian Douglas Valentine gives us the answer. Read how the Vietnamese protected and promoted him and how in return Hanoi John danced to their tune. McCain was on Vietnamese radio so often he was tagged as "the PW Songbird". SUBSCRIBE NOW to read the true story of Glory Boy McCain, only in our newsletter. Also in this issue: Alexander Cockburn on the final fall of Hillary Clinton's sleazeball husband, lobbyist for torturers. PLUS Serge Halimi on what "free trade" really means when the going gets rough. Get your copy today by subscribing online or calling 1-800-840-3683 Contributions to CounterPunch are tax-deductible. Click here to make a donation. If you find our site useful please: Subscribe Now! CounterPunch books and gear make great presents.

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Today's Stories

April 19 / 20, 2008

Patrick Cockburn
A New Struggle is Beginning in Iraq

April 18, 2008

John Ross
The Bush Legacy: Losing Latin America

Dave Lindorff
Courage and Conviction: In Praise of Bill Ayers

Dan Glazebrook
An Interview with Robert Fisk

Carl Finamore
A Look Inside the Hangars

Rannie Amiri
J Street: Do We Really Need Another Pro-Israel Lobby?

Richard Morse
A Creepy Roadblock at Midnight

Ko Young-dae
CONPLAN 8022: Inside Bush's Nuclear War Plan for the Korean Peninsula

Farooq Sulehria
A Himalayan Surprise

 

April 17, 2008

Michael Hudson
Hillary Joins the Vast Rightwing Financial Conspiracy

Robert Bryce
The Ethanol Apologists

Kathy Kelly
Weary of War? Don't Collaborate

Madis Senner
The Carrion Feeders' Ball: How Hedge Funds Reap Billions Off Economic Misery

Peter Morici
The G7, the Banks and GE

Ron Jacobs
Washington, al-Maliki and the Militias

William S. Lind
A Confirming Moment in Basra

James Murren
Obama's Disconnect with Small Town America

Ben Terrall
Losing Haiti

Walter Brasch
Political Log Rolling in Clinton County, PA

Website of the Day
Stealth Attack: Homegrown "Terrorism" Bill

 

April 16, 2008

Bill Kauffman
The Candidates from Nowhere

Roxanne Dunbar-Ortiz
Colonization and Massacres

Saul Landau
How to Leave Iraq

Peter Morici
McCain's Economic Plan: GOP Out of Ideas (But So are the Democrats)

Eric Toussaint /
Damien Millet
Bankers Saved, Human Rights Sacrificed

Jeff Ballinger
Inside Nike's Asian Sweatshops: Squeezed Vietnamese Workers Strike Back

David Macaray
Union Strikes and Replacement Workers

Gary Leupp
Electoral Revolution in Nepal

Richard Morse
The Food Riots in Haiti

George Ciccariello-Maher
Einstein Turns in His Grave

Dave Lindorff
Letters from the Bitter Belt

Website of the Day
Surviving Prozac

 

April 15, 2008

Ralph Nader
The Politics of Distraction in an Age of Gotcha Capitalism

Uri Avnery
Manifest Destiny and Israel

Brian Cloughley
Arrogant Lies

David Price
Outrageous Pre-Tour de France Ban

Joe Bageant
Bitter America: Media Shit Storms and Heartland Reality

Steve Early
The Purple Punch-Out in Dearborn

Mats Svensson
To Create Something from Nothing: the Making of a Palestinian State

Michael Donnelly
Dead-Eye Hil and the Elitist

April Howard /
Benjamin Dangl
Dissecting the Politics of Paraguay's Next President

Laray Polk
Let's Not Put the Torch in a Bubble

Charles Modiano
What Does a Woman Have to Do to Get on the Cover of Sports Illustrated?

Website of the Day
The $3 Trillion Shopping Spree

 

April 14, 2008

Carl Finamore
Airline Deregulation Makes a Hard Landing

Michael Hudson
A Trillion Dollar Rescue for Wall Street Gamblers

M. Shahid Alam
Hizbullah's Big Win: Has Israel Finally Met Its Match?

Patrick Cockburn
A Cleric, a Pol and a Warrior

Paul Craig Roberts
Petraeus Sets Up Iran

Joanne Mariner
Redition to Jordan: What Happens When the Gloves Come Off?

Martha Rosenberg
Suicide and Cymbalta

Dave Lindorff
The Bitterness Thing: Is Obama Channeling Nader

P. Sainath
Hot Messages to Sex Dancer Doom Condi's New Finnish Pal

John V. Whitbeck
On Hypocrisy Over Tibet: a Personal Reflection

Website of the Day
Spying on Environmental Groups

 

April 12 / 13, 2008

Alexander Cockburn
Olympic Torch Toasts US Candidates

Patrick Cockburn
Warlord: the Rise of Muqtada al-Sadr

Mike Whitney
Want to Save the Economy?

David Yearsley
Film Scores and Westerns: the Stealth Cavalry of Empire

Robert Fantina
Bush's Brand of Morality

Conn Hallinan
Another Defining Moment in Iraq

Bill Hatch
In Praise of Hippies and the Counter-Culture

Ramzy Baroud
The Basra Battles

George S. Hishmeh
Back to Square One

Ron Jacobs
The New New Left in Latin America

Nikolas Kozloff
Olympic Torch in Buenos Aires

Charles Thomson
The British Prime Minister and the Tate's Tin of Shit

Alexander Billet
The Disney-fication of CBGB

Missy Beattie
Huffing and Puffing to Failure

David Michael Green
America's Jones for War

Seth Sandronsky
Education Entrepreneurs

Prairie Miller
Meeting David Wilson

Jeffrey St. Clair
Booked Up

Poets' Basement
Ko Un, Ibn Salma and Greaves

Website of the Weekend
Americans United for Palestinian Human Rights

 

April 11, 2008

Nikolas Kozloff
The Clintons and Their Sordid Colombia Advocacy

Wajahat Ali
Revenge of the Ghetto Nerd: an Exclusive Interview with Junot Diaz

Sharon Smith
Let Them Eat Ethanol!

Yigal Bronner / Neve Gordon
Digging for Trouble: the Politics of Archaeology in East Jerusalem

Alan Farago
Eating South Florida

Dave Lindorff
On Waking Sleeping Giants: Lessons for America from China

George Wuerthner
Money for Nothing? The Problems with the Conservation Reserve Program

Christopher Brauchli
Prostitutes Don't Do Funerals

Website of the Day
Animals Explain the Insurance Industry: a Health Care Video

 

April 10, 2008

Mathieu Vernerey
Tibet for the Tibetans!

Elizabeth Schulte
Slavery in the Fields

David Macaray
Labor Unions Will Never Get a Fair Shake

Ashley Smith
The Rise of Muqtada al-Sadr

Peter Morici
Driving Up Debt and Dragging Down Growth

Jacob Hornberger
The Military's Distintegrating Family Life

Harold Austin
Snitch or Else: Prison Officials Threaten Gang Drop Outs

Website of the Day
Hillary: the Wal-Mart Videos

 

April 9, 2008

Paul Craig Roberts
The Fading American Economy

Winslow T. Wheeler
Congressional Theater: the Petraeus / Crocker Hearings

C. Hand
Why Dave Marash Left Al Jazeera

Paul Krassner
Sex and Violins

Paul Wolf
Colombian "Magnicidio" Remains a Mystery After 60 Years

Wajahat Ali
Alien Invasion!

Karyn Strickler
Lost in the Fumes: the Sierra Club Sells Out to Clorox

Dan La Botz
Confronting the Economic Crisis

Eric Walberg
The Shadow of Munich: Another NATO Flop

Robin Millenthal
Enough Already! Growth and the Tar Sands Economy

Website of the Day
Conservative Nanny State

April 8, 2008

Mike Whitney
Should Khalid Sheikh Mohammed be Set Free?

Nikolas Kozloff
Bush Bullies Congress on Colombia Deal

Greg Moses
Migrant Detention in South Texas

Joshua Frank
The Other Military Draft

John Ross
Mexico City's Urban Tribes Go on the Warpath Against EMOS

Michael Donnelly
Hillary's Western Swing

John V. Walsh
Why Obama Lost Massachusetts

Jeff Nygaard
Health, Security and Mandates

Bill Piper
Last Shot for a Bush Legacy?

Sen. Russ Feingold
Legal Representation and the Death Penalty

Website of the Day
Catonsville 9, Forty Years Later

 

April 7, 2008

Ishmael Reed
The Irish Black Thing

Harry Browne
Irish Peace Activist Acquitted; Deported

Uri Avnery
Tibet and Palestine

Lenni Brenner
Obama's Constitution, His Pastor and His Unbelieving Mom in Heaven

Ayesha Ijaz Khan
America Must Respect Pakistan's Democracy

Robert Fisk
Fearful Lives in the Land of the Free

Edwin Krales
Ensuring the Success of Fascism in Spain: the US Corporate Role

Chris Genovali
Vancouver Island's Dwindling Ancient Forests

Website of the Day
LA Artists Against War

 

April 5 / 6, 2008

Alexander Cockburn
Did the Elites Want MLK Dead?

Ramzy Baroud
There are No Checkpoints in Heaven

Ralph Nader
Runaway Bailouts

David Yearsley
How Scott Joplin Had Wall Street Down

Saul Landau
Sex Politics in America

Paul Craig Roberts
The Petraeus and Crocker Show

Lawrence Korb / Ian Moss
Rev. Jeremiah Wright, a True Patriot

Seth Sandronsky
Meet America's Promise Alliance: Colin Powell's New Gig

John Ross
La Cumbia de la Doctrina Bush: Colombia Kills Four Mexican Students in Ecuador Bombing

Robert Fantina
McCain, Republicans and Family Values

David Michael Green
Back to Disaster: Hoover at Home, Tet Abroad

Missy Beattie
McCan't

Patrick Bond
Vultures Circle Zimbabwe

Dr. Susan Block
The New American Pot Dealers

Phyllis Pollack
The Stones Meet the Press

Adam Engel
The Boobus in the Lie

Jeffrey St. Clair
Booked Up

Poets' Basement
Diamand and St. Clair

Website of the Weekend
Richard Pryor Goes to the Gun Shop

 

 

April 4, 2008

Dave Lindorff
The Night I Heard King Had Been Shot

Greg Moses
Missing King

Ron Jacobs
Two Murders, 40 Years On: Bobby Hutton and Martin Luther King, Jr.

Alan Farago
Show Me the Size of Your Bail Out and I'll Show You Mine

Alison Weir
Funding Our Decline: U.S. Aid to Israel

David Rosen
Rape as an Instrument of Total War

Robert Weissman
The Unrealized Dream

Jacob Hornberger
Was Killing Iraqi Children Worth It?

Jackie Corr
Hillary and Obama Head for Butte

Carl Finamore
Taking On United Airlines

Laray Polk
We Are All Dith Pran

Susie Day
Advice for the War-Torn

Website of the Day
Winter Soldiers: a Video Portrait

 

April 3, 2008

Peter Morici
The Deepening Recession

Joe Bageant
The Audacity of Depression

Andy Worthington
Cleared But Still Detained: The Ordeal of Moroccan Prisoner Said al-Boujaadia

Nikolas Kozloff
Condi's Divide and Rule Strategy in South America

Rannie Amiri
The U.S. Disdain for Mideast Democracy

David Macaray
More Labor Strife in Hollywood

Stephen Lendman
Lynne Stewart's Long Struggle for Justice

Website of the Day
The True Face of Da Vinci?

 

April 2, 2008

Diane Farsetta
Indian Point on the Potomac

Harry Browne
Bertie Ahern Laid Low by Secretary

Wajahat Ali
The Folly of Attacking Iran: a Conversation with Steven Kinzer

George Wuerthner
Open Season on Wolves

Col. Dan Smith
The Militarization of America

Philippe Marlière
The Politics of Bling-Bling in France: Sarkozy's Cultivated Anti-Intellectualism

Steve Early
A Purple Uprising in Oakland

Bernard Chazelle
Saving the American Left

Reza Fiyouzat
Bowling in Hell

 

April 1, 2008

Jeff Leys
Fracturing the Peace to End the War

Thomas P. Healy
Restoring the Constitution: a Conversation with Daniel Ellsberg

Winslow T. Wheeler
When Pigs Sprout Wings: Mangled Rationales for a Fatter Defense Budget

Roxanne Dunbar-Ortiz
New Deal Nostalgia

Patrick Irelan
Cocaine, Colombia and the Cartels

Andy Worthington
The Case of Ahmed Khalfan Ghailani

John V. Walsh
The Shunning of Ralph Nader

Michael J. Smith
Woolly Mamet

Robert Weissman
The New Philip Morris--Even Worse Than the Old?

Dave Lindorff
Bush's Defining Moments

Martha Rosenberg
Brain Mist Disease: Boss Hog's Gift to Humanity

Website of the Day
Support Briana!

 

March 31, 2008

Mike Whitney
Dead on Arrival: Paulson's Fixit Plan for Wall Street

Mats Svensson
Walls, Tunnels and Daily Humiliations

Paul Rockwell
Hillary's Lies About Outsourcing

Paul Craig Roberts
A Third American War in the Making?

Patrick Cockburn
Sadr Calls for Ceasefire

Peter Dale Scott
The Showdown

Alfredo Molano
Cultura Mafiosa in Colombia

Peter Morici
Why Paulson's Reform Plan Falls Short

Uri Avnery
Day of the Land, 32 Years Later

Michael Simmons
The American Bard in New Orleans

Betsy Roberts / Karen Orr
The Clorox Coup

Phyllis Pollack
First the Sun and Then the Moon: Scorsese Does the Stones

Website of the Day
Five Years Too Many

 


March 29 / 30, 2008

Alexander Cockburn
When They Pick Up the Phone at 3 AM, What Will They Say?

Patrick Cockburn
Iraqi Police Refuse to Back Maliki's Attacks on Medhi Army

Mike Whitney
Bernanke's Next Big Bail Out Plan

Christopher Brauchli
The Pastor of Armageddon and the Slave Sale: McCain, Lieberman and Rev. Hagee

William Blum
China, Tibet and the Propaganda Olympics

Robert Fantina
Iraq Troika: McCain, Obama and Clinton

John Ross
AMLO, the Comeback Kid? Fighting the Privatization of Mexico's Oil

Allison Kilkenny
Shady Lending Hits Home

Nelson P. Valdés
Cuba, the Beatles and Historical Context

Suzanne Baroud
The Great Lake of Gaza: a New Crisis in the Making

Richard Rhames
Social Security: Throwing Granny from the Gravy Train

Christopher Fons
Transcending the 60s? Obama and the Baby Boomers

Carl Finamore
Misery at 35,000 Feet: Mergers Stall, Fares Soar, Services Slump and Consumers Sour

Eamonn McCann
Hillary Misremembers Again!

Missy Beattie
Justice and the Monsters of War

Fred Gardner
Jim Thorpe, All-American

Kim Nicolini
Cock Chuggers and Cheese Curls: Richard Kelly's "Southland Tales"

David Yearsley
"All the World's a Hospital"

Jeffrey St. Clair
Booked Up

Poets' Basement
Valentine and Ko Un

Website of the Weekend
Hidden Iraq

 

March 28, 2008

Saul Landau
Growing Dread About Iraq

Alan Farago
Other People's Money: the Chop Shop Economy

Peter Morici
Knocking Down False Economic Gods

Andy Worthington
Plight of the Uyghus: a Chinese Muslim's Desperate Plea from Guantánamo

Felice Pace
Ashes of Lies: Why No One Trusts the US Forest Service

Peter Montague
Sierra Club Cleans House -- With Clorox!

Dave Lindorff
The Mumia Exception


March 27, 2008

Patrick Cockburn
Basra Erupts

Binoy Kampmark
Free Market Apostates

Joanne Mariner
"Was George Washington a Terrorist?"

Norman Solomon
NPR News: National Pentagon Radio?

William S. Lind
Mars Only Knocks Once: a Prognosis for Iraq

John V. Walsh
Obama's Speech: a Touch of Bigotry?

Robert Weissman
How Things Work

Ron Jacobs
Meeting Charlie Ehlen

Ralph Nader
Put Impeachment Back on the Table

David Macaray
Court Rules Against Grocery Workers

John Borowski
Clearcutting the History of Forest Destruction

Website of the Day
Going Out for an English

 

March 26, 2008

Stan Cox
The Germs Next Door

Sharon Smith
Greed Pays: Welfare on Wall Street

Anita Sinha / Jill Tauber
Dreams Turned into Rubble in New Orleans

Matt Vidal
So Much for the Self-Regulating Market

William S. Lind
Operation Cassandra

Joe Mowrey
The Audacity of Hypocrisy: Obama's Pandering to Israel

Dave Lindorff
Duck and Cover (Up): Hillary Under Fire

Ray McGovern
Frontline's War: Too Timid, Too Little, Too Late

Justin Smith
Why Race and Gender are Separate Issues

Sam Husseini
The Winter Soldier Hearings and Indy Media

Martha Rosenberg
Blood on Ice: Gentlemen, Pick Up Your Clubs

Michael Dickinson
Politicians as Dogs

Website of the Day
The Wal-Mart Virus: How the Infection Spread

 

March 25, 2008

Ishmael Reed
The Crazy Rev. Wright

Corey D. B. Walker
The Politics of Jeremiah Wright

Linn Washington Jr.
Racism in America and Other Uncomfortable Facts

Alan Farago
The Money Launderers: a Picnic for Wall St. Insiders

Vijay Prashad
A Glimmer of Hope From the Gulf Coast

Joshua Frank
A Silver Lining to the Bush Years?

Ralph Nader
How Public Servants Can Help End This War

David Rovics
If I Can't Dance: Why is the Left So Boring?

Peter Morici
America's Banks are Broken

Dave Zirin
Olympic Flames: China's Crackdown in Tibet

David Krieger
The Crisis in Tibet

Website of the Day
Memorializing Iraq

March 24, 2008

Jeffrey St. Clair
Blonde Ambition: Hillary's Berserker Campaign for 2012

Peter Morici
Digging Out of the Recession

Uri Avnery
Two Americas

Wajahat Ali
First of the Mohicans: an Interview with Rep. Keith Ellison

Paul Craig Roberts
Inside the Shell Game

George Ciccariello-Maher
The Coming War on Venezuela

Stephen Lendman
Sami Al-Arian's Long Ordeal

Christopher Brauchli
Possessing Someone Else's Country

Cat Woods
A Letter to Mom on Obama

Stacey Warde
Tax Burden

Dave Lindorff
The American Dead Hits 4,000, But Who's Counting?

Website of the Day
Live from the Longest Walk

 

March 22 / 23, 2008

Ralph Nader
Bush Blisters the Truth on Iraq

Nicole Colson
Can You Afford to Feed Your Family?

James Petras
The Cost of Unilateral Humanitarian Initiatives

Laura Carlsen
From Bombs to Markets: The Andean Crisis and the Geopolitics of Trade

Greg Moses
Tolerance and the American Pulpit

Andy Worthington
Torture Stories Dog Guantánamo Trials

Michael Dickinson
Art on Trial

John Ross
Bush's Surge Hits Mosul

Missy Comley Beattie
Killer Economics

David Michael Green
Happy Anniversary, America!

Ramzy Baroud
The Coming Uncertain War on Iran

Martha Rosenberg
Easter Egg Shells from Hell

Paul Watson
Evolution is Going to the Dogs in the Galapagos

Isabella Kenfield
Monsanto's Raid on Brazil

James Murren
Logging v. Water in Honduras

Jacob Hornberger
Sex and the Immigration Officer

Kathlyn Stone
Ben Heine, Master of the Art of Resistance

Seth Sandronsky
Rethinking New Mexico's History

Kim Nicolini
Class, Gender and Abortion in Communist Romania

Jeffrey St. Clair
Booked Up: What I'm Reading This Week

Poets' Basement
Wilson, Woods, Gibbons and Orloski

Website of the Weekend
Merci, McCain!
 

Weekend Edition
April 19 / 20, 2008

The Musical Patriot

Suitcase Arias and Ithacan Jazz (But Tune That Piano!)

By DAVID YEARSLEY

There are two kinds of musical baggage, the one real, the other virtual. The so-called suitcase aria combines these two aspects. 18th-century opera stars lugged around actual leaves of paper with the notated music for their show-stopping set pieces, their musical calling cards.
Arriving for an engagement in a new city, the star would demand to sing his signature aria in the opera to be performed, plugging it in at the least inappropriate moment. The larger drama had to make way for some ten minutes of pure ego.

The traveling star would distribute the music to the conductor and orchestra, and when the singer’s moment came he simply parked and barked—stepped to the footlights, struck the pose and delivered the showcase aria just he had as in countless other operas and opera houses across the European continent. The singer relied on the notated score (hand luggage, if you like) along with the virtual music in his or her own head and produced by his her own voice.

Still, the thought of lost luggage must have been a terrifying one to those carrying a suitcase aria.
Without dimension or mass, the music of memory and imagination is the lightest baggage the traveler can take on the journey. It brings with it no surcharges, must thwart no carry-on guidelines, threatens no broken zippers or busted buckles, no diverse contents flung round the conveyor belt for the general inspection and amusement of baggage handlers and jetlagged passengers. This virtual music of the mind need not be—often can’t be—turned off during take-off and landing. For all the digital accuracy of the Ipod, its silicon hold crammed with however many thousands of tunes, it can never match the intensity and adaptability of the music of the human hard drive.

A friend of mine composed an entire 75 minute pop album of staggering originality while accompanying his mother around the museums of Europe. Genius can travel lightly.

It is true, that sad music, though physically weightless, can weigh down the melancholic traveler, as it occasionally did the greatest musical adventurer of the 17th century. Over many journeys, Johann Jakob Froberger was variously ensnared and bloodied by wars and brigands, attacked by pirates, deserted by princes. Yet on his death, he is said to have been a man of exceedingly good humor and loved by all. On one of his many adventures, Froberger composed a moving lament, a genre for which he harbored lasting and profound affection: “Meditation on my own future death.” He wrote the piece on the road, in Paris on May Day 1660 when the rest of the city was celebrating the rebirth of nature with the oncoming Spring.

No i-Pod could ever do that.

17th-century medicine urged travel as a cure for melancholy. Music was crucial to this prescription, as Froberger noted on another trip with another of his lament, this one written to “pass his melancholy.” Give me such evocations of sorrow underway over the heroic Beethoven Symphonies heard incessantly in the Pittsburgh Airport or the chirpy Mozart of the Port Authority Bus Terminal in New York deployed to drive out the homeless.

Indeed, the whistling, humming vagabond is fueled by his own music, pushed forward by his own song. This is the truly free traveler, of say, Bach’s free-spirited cantata, Ich bin in mir vergnügt (I’m content in myself). Save the occasional well-timed handout, this hermit on the road needs no one and nothing except for the occasional handout, some crumbs of bread, and a wedge of cheese. But he must have his tunes, and these he supplies himself.

Still, the urge to accessorize is impossible to suppress, and the larger the musical accessory the greater hassle.
Think of the encumbrances of the double bass versus those of the harmonica. Even the cellistS must buy an extra seat on the airplane for their cellos.

Other instruments are less unwieldy. The great violinist Nicola Matteis made his way to London in the late 17th-century: a contemporary related that “his circumstances were low, and it was say’d that he travelled thro’ Germany on foot with his violin under a full coat at his back.”

Lost luggage can be much more than an inconvenience when it concerns a beloved musical instrument. That most mercurial of violinists, Francecso Maria Veracini, lost his pair of famed Stainer violins—Stainers were more prized in Veracini’s 18thcentury than those of Stradivarius—when his ship went down in the English Channel. I always think of the catastrophic loss of these illustrious instruments, nicknamed St. Peter and St. Paul, to add the proper perspective when my suitcase doesn’t show up on the baggage carousel.

This past Sunday evening New York City trumpeter Jim Rotondi, his horn at his side and an apparently limitless store of music in his mind, showed up at the Carriage House Café, an excellent, if occasional, jazz venue at the south end of Lake Cayuga. In the recently refurbished hayloft of the 19th-century carriage house from which the restaurant takes its name, Rotondi delivered a masterful display of the virtual and real.

Lying about halfway between Buffalo to the West and New York City to the Southeast, Ithaca is often referred to as “centrally isolated” by many a self-styled cosmopolitan after getting air-dropped into this college town for the purposes of academic advancement. One would not necessarily expect to find musicians here capable of following Rotondi through his high voltage bebop tempos.

But the provinces hold surprises. When the mighty Parisian organist Louis Marchand traveled through what he thought were the backwaters Germany in 1717 he never suspected that he would run into a J. S. Bach and subsequently have to flee their keyboard contest under cover of darkness after hearing Bach do his thing earlier in the evening. Legion are the stories of great musicians tucked away in distant places, and in Ithaca this means the trio of John Stetch, a world-class pianist who happens to live in town, as does his equal, the bassist Nicholas Walker; the trio’s excellent drummer Tom Killian comes from nearby Corning, New York.

Rotondi had spent the previous two weekend nights playing Rochester, that once-shining city on the shores of Lake Ontario, now a dimmed beacon of New York’s distant Industrial Age. These days a tour of Upstate New York is a tour of rural poverty and urban decay, with bright ribbons of suburban sprawl holding the whole thing tenuously together.

Nestled between the city of Ithaca on the valley floor and the citadel of Cornell University on the bluffs above, the Carriage House Café has the wooden and stone warmth of a winery tasting room though about half the pretentiousness and more than a century of aging to supply the necessary luster of authenticity. Like the café as a whole, the hayloft indulges in the requisite modern touches of “good taste”—the carefully selected details of tile, the retro lighting fixtures, the occasional leather armchair of the gentleman’s club. The studied chaos of the weekend antique collector fills out the decor: a penny farthing bicycle hangs on the wall above the bandstand, old typewriters and accordion cameras peek out from ad hoc niches between beams and vaulting. The architecture and interior design are the opposite of that found in the celebrated jazz basement that is the Village Vanguard.
The bandstand is itself enclosed by a wooden balustrade that could easily be mistaken for an altar rail. And why not? The audience is here to celebrate the priesthood of musicians over a communion cup of well-chosen, if foolishly named Zinfandel.

The primitive thud of a fraternity barbecue wafting across one of Ithaca’s famous gorges begins to fade. The flow of SUVs with New Jersey plates thundering over the brick paving on the street below recedes. The evening sun bathes the wooden interior of the Carriage House in the red afterglow of the weekend.

Rotondi and the John Stetch Trio confer sotto voce, Rotondi telling his new musical acquaintances what they’d be playing first: the tune, the key, the basic parameters of the tempo. We were about to hear the first notes the visitor will play with this well-organized trio. That is exciting for the musicians and for the audience, and constitutes the true and limitless wealth of jazz: the virtual suitcase aria.

Of course we all bring music with us, though only a small fraction of the huge library of jazz standards shared in the minds of Rotondi, Stetch, and Walker. We’re all ready to sing Happy Birthday, even if diffidently, but not at lightning speed under the non-stop pressure of ever-changing polyrhythms coming from all directions and against constantly shifting harmonic variations to the basic chord patterns grabbed intuitively by all participants at the light speed of the imagination.

Rotondi called “Alone Together” for the opener and the quartet set off at a brisk tempo, a plunge into the unknown over the familiar terrain of a tune played and recorded uncountable times. The title itself is the perfect motto for the enterprise of jazz, and for the first meeting of these musicians. As writers on music have noted since at least the 17th century, ensemble playing involves a mysterious dialectic of cooperation and competition. There is a sense of the whole, but also one of establishing individual credibility, not to say excellence. Jazz is perhaps the perfect form for the workings of this dialectic: showing-off is a huge part of the fun and art of it. Yes, each player can and should be buoyed by their partners, but there is no hiding behind the group. Exposure is crucial to the equation of jazz.

Rotondi doesn’t have a problem with overexposure: he loves the limelight and it is a real pleasure to hear him bask in it, especially without the clutter and distortion of amplification in the intimate, welcoming acoustics of the hayloft.

Hailing from Butte, Montana, a place known more for the Berkeley copper mine pit than its bebop trumpeters, Rotondi has an astounding agility of technique and invention, often pushing his improvisations beyond the safe harbor of harmonic and melodic convention. I am not one to denigrate the familiar, as I think novelty for its own sake is a curse of art, and Rotondi plays much that is wonderfully straight ahead. But I gladly follow Rotondi as best I can along the sometimes bumpy terrain of the outer reaches. He guides us with an unfailing swing through every moment of the journey, offering up his own complex commentary on the progress of musical time and harmony and charted by the richly varied metrical and harmonic impulses of the John Stetch trio.

If you doubt that music is learned as a language, consider Rotondi’s mastery of the complexities of bop syntax, developed in 1940s New York, by black virtuosos and aesthetes, or be moved by his playing of the blues—and I don’t mean just the closing blues-line with which the quartet ended the first set. Rotondi’s authenticity is that of a native speaker, who may have learned the language first in distant Montana but has nonetheless mastered its cadence and meaning. His accent was doubtless perfected during his early touring years with Ray Charles. At the Carriage House Rotondi’s blues were as black as bituminous coal.

1998 winner of Le Grand Prix du Jazz du Maurier in Montreal, Stetch has produced a stream of fine recordings over the last decade-and-a-half, the last half dozen available from Justin Time Records. Miraculously, he began playing the piano in earnest only at the age of eighteen. In spite of the late start, he has built an impressive technique, which includes octaves, abundant and creative use of the left-hand, and fleet lines in the right. He can play bebop in the tradition extending back to Bud Powell, though I often hear more the elegance of a Wynton Kelly in the contours of his right hand melodies and his rhythmically incisive left hand. While embracing that history, Stetch isn’t stuck in it. A creative and energetic accompanist, Stetch delivers solos that are sermons of the unexpected, often moving between disparate rhetorical registers, from careening, widely-spaced octaves and fifths darting in parallel motion, to spontaneous counterpoint between right and left hands, to jubilant block chords, and to the aforementioned skeins of melody.

The range of styles is ecumenical, as in his tenor-range gospel intonings on the group’s Latin reading of “Love For Sale.” Stetch’s is a pianism of many languages, often spoken simultaneously. He also has a great sense of musical humor, as in the tightly-knit trio’s featured version of the “Theme from Star Trek”—a virtuosic up-tempo arrangement that turned this bit of a pop-culture pablum into and an enlivening sorbet, a palette cleanser to the richer fare of jazz classics served up over the rest of the evening.

Unfortunately, Stetch was saddled with a disgracefully out-of-tune Steinway. Like one of those Carriage House horses of yore, he stoically dragged the grand piano through the evening like a thoroughbred pulling a hackney coach with a broken axle. Taking an odd solace in the fact that even the Village Vanguard’s piano heard on so many live recordings could be almost as off-kilter, the provincial in me took a perverse pride in displacing my own displeasure at the unkempt instrument onto Ithaca’s best piano tuner, who happened to be sitting at the table next to mine. But even this unlikely form of sublimated Schadenfreude could not completely assuage my sense of loss that Stetch’s lovely introduction to the ballad “Darn that Dream” had to suffer such indignities.

Bassist Nicholas Walker is not only a great jazz musician but possibly one of the most diverse musicians on the planet. Such a claim should neither be attributed to my provincial pride in local talent nor to the fact that he’s my neighbor. We both live just downhill from the Carriage House, in a neighborhood tucked between the sprawling and picturesque city graveyard and the dramatic Cascadilla Gorge. For several years Walker toured with famed tenor saxophonist Illinois Jacquet (more about him next week), and he’s recorded with many other important jazz musicians. Walker’s Beatles bass concerto, performed a couple of years ago to a sellout crowd in Ithaca’s historic downtown theatre, is masterpiece of charm and allusion.

He plays in the one of the world’s leading period instrument orchestras, Boston’s Handel and Haydn. Professor of bass at Ithaca college, he is as at home playing the Bach cello suites on one of his basses as he is with the tangos of Piazzolla. Did I mention that he’s also an excellent viola da gamba player, and that I’ve even had the pleasure of joining him for some swinging 17th-century Venetian music, lagoon bebop from La Serenissima? Such domestic and public music-making with a neighbor belong to the truest of provincial joys.

At that Carriage House jazz Sunday, Walker announced his musical credentials with a beautifully constructed bowed solo on “Alone Together.” He proceeded then to spread his abundant gifts across the rest of the evening. In his rollicking and rhythmically complex treatment of Miles Davis’s “Solar,” Walker moved from jagged bop lines to bluesy utterances high up on the finger board before returning us to the beginning of the song’s form and ushering in the re-entry of the quartet. He did so with an eloquent and ghostly quotation from the tune itself cast against the grain of the beat—a dazzling feat of poised musical oratory founded on an unwavering sense rhythm.

The visiting virtuoso Rotondi clearly had met in the hill and lake country of central New York more than merely able companions for his tour through jazz standards from the group’s lightning scamper through “Just One of Those Things” to the relaxed “Nostalgia” of ill-fated bop legend Fats Navarro (with whom Rotondi would have more than held his own) to the funky, unnamed blues à la Lee Morgan’s “Sidewinder” that might have closed things out had the quartet not obliged the enthusiastic audience with an encore. The proceedings then duly concluded on a more mellow note, one perhaps tinged by the melancholy of the traveler, with “Bye, Bye Blackbird. ” It would have been the perfect moment for the Harmon mute favored by Miles Davis on this tune, but apparently that accessory hadn’t made it into Rotondi’s bag.

Afterwards I set out into the evening, at a suitably provincial hour of 10:45, a fine fresh loaf of Carriage House ciabatta handed me by the proprietor on my way out of the door. I headed down the rim of the gorge to my house, glad that I could enjoy this memorable jazz journey without even leaving home.

As for the hard-working Rotondi, the rest of April finds him traveling through Spain, his trumpet in tow. I don’t know if it fits in the overhead compartment. As for the music within him: baggage restrictions don’t apply.

David Yearsley teaches at Cornell University, and is author of Bach and the Meanings of Counterpoint (Cambridge University Press). He's also a long-time contributor to the Anderson Valley Advertiser. He can be reached at dgy2@cornell.edu


 




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