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Today's
Stories
July 22-23, 2006
Jonathan Cook
Israel's Indiscriminate Onslaughts
Uri Avnery
"Stop that Shit"
Gilad Atzmon
Israel's New Math
Robert Fisk
Elegy for Beirut
Ralph Nader
Here's How to Halt This Horror
Fred Gardner
The Double Standard on Depression
Christopher Reed
The Right's Use of Sexpot Schoolgirls
Dr. Susan Block
Bush's Fecal World
Najla Said
Do People Know How Much We Hurt?
Paul Craig Roberts
The Shame of Being an American
July 21, 2006
George Galloway
John Cornford and the Fight for the Spanish Republic
P. Sainath
Indian Prime Minister Faces the Dead Farmer Problem
Aseem Shrivastava
The Iraq War is a Huge Success
Alexander Cockburn
Hezbollah, Hamas and Israel: Everything You Need to Know
Website of the Day
FromIsraeltoLebanon
July 20, 2006
William S. Lind
Why Hezbollah is Winning
Robert Jensen
Florida Puts History on Probation
John Ross
AMLO Presidente!
Tom Hayden
I Was Israel's Dupe
Paul Craig Roberts
The Unfolding Horror Show
July 19, 2006
Patrick Cockburn
Massacres Soar in Central Iraq: Maliki Government Discredited
Trish Schuh
Israel Targets, Flattens Beirut TV Station HQ
Jonathan Cook
Is Israel Using Arab Villages As Human Shields?
Vicente Navarro
The Spanish Civil War, 70 Years On: The Deafening Silence on Franco's Genocide
July 17 / 18 2006
Mike Whitney
Israel's Shameful Attack on Gaza
Kathleen Christison Atrocities in the Promised Land
July 14 / 15,
2006
Weekend Edition
Alexander Cockburn
How
Venice is Dying
Tanya Reinhart
The IDF is Hungry for War
Robert Fisk
Beirut Waits: Is Damascus the Key?
Daniel Cassidy
How the Irish Invented Jazz
Winslow Wheeler
Pentagon Budget Gimmickry: When a Cut is Actually an Increase
Hugh O'Shaughnessy
In Amazonia: Slavery and Deforestation
M. Shahid Alam
Israel, the US and the New Orientalism
William S. Lind
Two Signposts in Iraq
Ramzy Baroud
Racism Plagues Media Coverage of Gaza Assault
Gilad Atzmon
Echoes of the Wehrmacht
Elizabeth Weill-Greenberg
Railroading Your Rights
Samar Assad
A History of Israeli-Palestinian Prisoner Exchanges
Ron Jacobs
Japan and Pre-Emptive Strikes: Why Would They Want to Go There?
Lee Ballinger
A New Kind of Jim Crow?
Walter Brasch
A World Without Fajitas?: the Rightwing's Language Police
Dave Lindorff
The Bush Swingers?: They Broke the Law and People Died
Clifton Ross
Up from Below in Oaxaca
Tom Crumpacker
Planning for the Re-Colonization of Cuba
Ricardo Alarcon
The Mad Annexationist
William Hughes
Rev. Billy Graham: A War-Monger in the Pulpit
Susie Day
Bugging Hillary
Farrah Hassen
The Road to Gitmo: Dramatizing the Banality of Evil
Poets' Basement
Smith-Ferri, Engel and Davies
July 13, 2006
Saul Landau
Lies as Patriotism?
Youmans / Erakat
Divestment, Corporate Engagement
and Israel
Dave Lindorff
Cut and Run: a Winning Strategy
Ron Jacobs
Dogs of War Barking at the Moon
Col. Dan Smith
Iraq: Fool Me Twice
June 22, 2006
Marjorie Cohn
Friendly Fire Ambush
Winslow T. Wheeler
Lockheed, the Senator and the F-22
Tanya Reinhart
A Week of Israeli Restraint
Mike Marqusee
The Forest Gate Raid
William Blum
Why Bush's Iraq is Worse Than Saddam's
July 12, 2006
John Ross
Mexico
Splits in Half: the Election Hits the Streets
John Stauber
The CIA Propagandist and Former Prankster Stewart Brand: John
Rendon's Long, Strange Trip in the Terror Wars
Robert Boston
Top 10 Powerbrokers of the Religious Right
Wayne S. Smith
Bush's New Cuba Plan: Embargoes, Blacklists and Assassination
Plots
John Graham
Secrecy and the Curtain of Oz
Ed Kinane
Arrested for Failing to Obey a Lawful Order to Cease Protesting
an Unlawful War: My Statement to the US District Court
Kevin Prosen
Goodbye Mr. Zeidler, You Will Be Missed
Jonathan Cook
Israel's
Latest Bueaucratic Obscenity
Website of
the Day
Addicted
to Oil: Starring GW Bush
July 11, 2006
Dave Lindorff
Does
a State of War Give Bush the Right to Commit War Crimes?
Dave Zirin
Why
I Wear My Zidane Jersey
Mokhiber / Weissman
Boeing's Criminal Agreement: Odd and Unusual
Amira Hass
A War on Families
Clare Hanrahan
The Last Free Fourth of July?
Brian Cloughey
Stop Blaming Pakistan
Felice Pace
The US Media and the World Cup
Raed Jarrar
Iraq:
Raped
Website of the Day
Bad Boy of Gitmo
July 10, 2006
Paul Craig
Roberts
Courting
Doom with North Korea
Uri Avnery
A
One-Sided War
Roger Burbach
Democracy
Betrayed: Electoral Fraud and Rebellion in Mexico
Ron Jacobs
The New SDS: Toward a Radical Youth Movement
Joshua Frank
Sectarian Flames in Iraq
Missy Comley Beattie
Bush's Stunning Admission to Larry King
Alexander Cockburn
The
War in Iraq: a Dreadful Mistake
July 8 / 9, 2006
Weekend Edition
Stephen Green
When
War Criminals Retire
Paul Craig
Roberts
Republic or Empire?: Lessons from Stanford
Greg Moses
Boots Down on the Rio Grande
Ralph Nader
The
Wail of the Oceans
Laura Carlsen
Mexico's Election Lacks Credibility
Conn Hallinan
Dumping Musharraf: Is Pakistan Expendable?
John Chuckman
Afghanistan is No One's War
Fred Gardner
Big Pharma's Strange Holy Grail: Cannabis Without Euphoria?
Dr. Tod Mikuriya
Cannabis as a Frontline Treatment for Childhood Mental Disorders
Pierre Tristam
Missile Envy: Is N. Korea Bush's Most Reliable Ally?
Lucinda Marshall
Deep Sexing the News: the Rape of Iraq
David Swanson
Command Rape: the Ordeal of Suzanne Swift
Heather Gray
The Spiral of Violence: What the Dead Might Tell Us
Dave Zirin
/ John Cox
French Soccer and the Future of Europe: Le Pen's Racists vs.
Zindane and Henry
Mark Engler
Mexico's Fear of Democracy: Elites, Fraud and the Status Quo
Michael Lettieri
Mexico: Don't Discount a Recount
Ron Jacobs
2008 Might Be Too Late: the Case for Impeachment Now
Jamal Juma'
Globalizing the Occupation
Jeffrey St. Clair
Playlist: What I'm Listening to This Week
Poets' Basement
Engel and Kirbach
July 7, 2006
John Ross
Anatomy
of a Fraud Foretold: Mexico's Surreal Elections
July 6, 2006
Nick Dearden
Profiting from the Occupation: the Corporate Interests Behind
the War on Palestine
John Stanton
Nationalize
the Defense Industry
Ralph Nader
The Politics of the Minimum Wage
Laray Polk
Cambodia Then; Gaza Now
Saul Landau
Who Mourned the Victims of the US Covert War on Chile?
Joshua Frank
Sweet Angst, Power Chords and Politics: Farewell Sleater-Kinney
William S. Lind
To Be or Not to Be a State? Hamas and 4th Generation War
Adelman / Lindorff
Impeachment Comes to Main Street, USA
Jonathan Cook
An
Experiment in Human Despair
Website of
the Day
Adulterers in Chief?
July 5, 2006
Mike Whitney
Is
Cheney Betting on Economic Collapse?: the Veep's Curious Investment
Portfolio
Saul Landau
False
Axioms: Star Democrats and Iraq Massacres
Ramzy Baroud
And
Israel Shall Be Safe Again
Missy Comley Beattie
An Axis of Nuts: Ready, Aim, Fear
Arthur Neslen
A Way Out of the Gaza Crisis?
Vincent Maruffi
Party Politics in Connecticut: Lieberman, Lamont and the Greens
Paul Cantor
Aberrations:
Hell, High Water and the Moral High Ground
Paul D. Johnson
Mystery Meat: Let's Be Honest About Food's Origin
David Price
Shouting
Down Nazis in Olympia
July 4, 2006
Col. Dan Smith
Iraq
and Independence Day: Lessons from the War of 1812
Chris Floyd
American
Power in Mahmudiyah
Marjorie Cohn
Israel's
Collective Punishment of Gaza
James Brooks
Israel 9,000 Palestine 1: Destroying the Gaza Strip
Medea Benjamin
"Dictatress
of the World:" Has America Become JQ Adams' Worst Nightmare?
Matt Reichel
An Independence Day Lesson for the American Left from France
Elisa Salasin
Why I am Fasting Today
Rick Wilhelm
Will Lieberman Apologize to Ralph Nader?
Paul Craig
Roberts
Rape,
Lies and Murder
Website of the Day
A Mighty Handsome Family
July 3, 2006
Robert Bryce
Gaza
in the Dark: Poor, Frustrated and Powerless
Dr. Bouthaina Shaban
"I Hope You're Not Here to Talk About the Palestinians"
Julia Olmstead
The Biofuel Illusion: Running on Top Soil
Dave Lindorff
The Real Meaning of the Hamdan Ruling: Bush Adm. Has Committed
War Crimes
Andres Gomez
A Mockery of Justice
Alan Singer
Another Encounter with Chuck Schumer: Just as Hawkish as Hillary,
But Nastier
Alexander Cockburn
Temple
of Mammon, Planet of Doom
July 1/2, 2006
Weekend Edition
Paul Craig
Roberts
Bush's
Assaults on Freedom: What's to Stop Him?
Stephen T.
Banko
Echoes
from Vietnam; Nightmares in Iraq
Daniel Cassidy
How the Irish Invented Slang: the Bunkum of Bunkum (for Dizzy
Gillespie)
Fawzia Afzal-Khan
The Class Behind the Muslim
Jeff Taylor
The Sandy Foundation of the White House: a Bible-Believing Christian's
View of Bush
John Ross
Mexico: There's a Riot Going On
Greg Moses
Psycho-Management Hits Mexico's Maquiladoras
Laura Carlsen
Mexico's Elections: a Choice for Change
Justin E.H.
Smith
Lethal Injection and Other Fashion Trends
Brian Cloughley
Different Worlds: When Liberation is Worse Than Oppression
Anthony Papa
Punishing Addiction: No Walk in the Park for Dwight Gooden
Mike Ferner
Getting Busted for Wearing a Peace T-Shirt
Jerry Tucker
Liberalism's Long Goodbye: McGovern Hoists the White Flag
Jane Goodall / Rick Asselta
Remembering the Marshall Islands
Phyllis Pollack
Roll Over Beethoven: Chuck Berry is Back in Town
Poets' Basement
Salasin, Swindell, Ferri-Smith and Engel
June 30, 2006
Marjorie Cohn
Supreme
Rebuke: Bush Loses Gitmo Case
Heather Williams
Will
Mexicans Ignore What Bolivians Learned?
Burbach / Cantor
Yellowback
Democrats: the Party of Cut-and-Run (from Principle)
Nick Dearden
Crime in the Valley: Life on the Other Side of Palestine
Michael J.
Smith
Under the Broadcast Flag: Intellectual Property as Intellectual
Theft
Brian Concannon
The Return to Haiti: a Homecoming for Aristide?
Virginia Tilley
Israel's Appalling Act: Starving in the Dark
June 29, 2006
Bill Quigley
Gutting
New Orleans
Ron Jacobs
Killing a Nation to Rescue a Soldier
Paul Craig
Roberts
The High Price of American Gullibility
June 28, 2006
Jorge Mariscal
Mexican-American
Soldiers, Iraq and the Politics of Immigrant Bashing
Greg Moses
Down
in Pinal County: Where the Pun's on Us
Mark Weisbrot
Mexico: Their Brand is Crisis
Ramzy Baroud
Re-Interpreting
Iraq: the Latest Propaganda Campaign
Dave Lindorff
Redacting the Constitution: Why Signing Statements Matter
William S.
Lind
Neither Shall the Sword: War in a Fouth Generation World
Mike Ferner
50 Years Down the Wrong Direction: Taken for a Ride on the Interstate
Highway System
Zoltan Grossman
Military Resistance: a Brief History
June 27, 2006
Marjorie Cohn
Playing
Politics with Timetables
Benjamin /
Jarrar
Leading
Dems Froth Over Amnesty Plan
William Hughes
Roadmap to Starvation
Doug Giebel
Showdown in Montana: Burns vs. Testor
Uri Avnery
The World Cup and Middle East Peace
Alexander Cockburn
Hitchens Hails the "Glorious War"
June 26, 2006
Don Santina
American
Rituals: Massacres, Baseball and Apple Pies
Ralph Nader
Beyond Binary Politics
Dave Lindorff
CounterPunch v. CounterPunch: Taking Impeachment on the Road
Rafael Rodriguez-Cruz
An Interview with Mumia Abu-Jamal on Hispanics and Latin America
Evelyn Pringle
Big
Pharma's Big Graveyard: Drug Profits, Fraud and Death
Jonathan Cook
Israeli
"Retaliation" and Double Standards
June 23, 2006
Youmans / Erakat
Divestment, Corporate Engagement
and Israel
Dave Lindorff
Cut
and Run: a Winning Strategy
Ron Jacobs
Dogs of War Barking at the Moon
Col. Dan Smith
Iraq:
Fool Me Twice
June 22, 2006
Marjorie Cohn
Friendly Fire Ambush
Winslow T.
Wheeler
Lockheed,
the Senator and the F-22
Tanya Reinhart
A Week of Israeli Restraint
Mike Marqusee
The
Forest Gate Raid
William Blum
Why Bush's Iraq is Worse Than Saddam's
June 21, 2006
Ramzy Baroud
Zarqawi's Death: Myth vs. Reality
Patrick Cockburn
Embassy Work as Death Sentence
Gary Leupp
Making the Case for Impeachment
Greg Moses
Elite Logic at the Border
June 20, 2006
Fred Gardner
The Long War on Aspirin
Omar Waraich
Ode to Joy: Watching Blair Sink
Christopher Reed
Japan Nixes Payments to Its Wartime
Slaves
CP Newswire
Coca Cola Takes a Hit
Jonathan Cook
Israel Engineers Another Cover-Up
June 19, 2006
Bill Quigley
HUD's Bulldozers and the Poor of
New Orleans
John Walsh
Tears of a Clown: Al Franken's War
Mike Whitney
The Zoom Lens War: Bush's Baghdad
Photo Op
Alexander Cockburn
The Left and the Blathersphere
June 16 / 18, 2006
Weekend Edition
Kathy / Bill Christision
The
Power of the Israel Lobby
Joseph Nevins
On the Migrant Trail: No More Walls, No More Deaths
Farrah Hassen
An Interview with Syria's Ambassador to the US, Dr. Imad Moustapha
Greg Moses
The Real Mission of the Uniformed Ghost at the Border
Nicole Colson
"There's No Hope at Gitmo"
John Scagliotti
How MoveOn Wastes Its Donors' Money
Mokhiber / Weissmann
Corporate Democrats
June 15, 2006
Kathy Kelly
Look
Them in the Eye: Honest Abe and the Residents of Ramadi
Norman Solomon
Premature Triangulation: Hillary's Big Problem
Ron Jacobs
Publicity
Stunts as Public Policy
Sam Bahour
Cover Up on Gaza Beach
Ramzy Baroud
Palestine on the Brink
CounterPunch Wire
Death Squads at Colombia's Universities
Gabriel Kolko
Why
a Global Economic Deluge Looms
Website of the Day
Antje Duvekot: Music You've Been Waiting Years to Hear
June 14, 2006
Nicole Colson
"They
Want the Fear Level at a High Pitch": An Interview with Lawyer
Lynne Stewart
Jonathan Cook
Israeli
Law and Order
Joseph Schechla
Bulldozing Palestine: an Open Letter to Caterpillar, Inc.
Michael Carmichael
Bolton at Oxford: Jeered and Taunted
Evelyn Pringle
Karl and George, the Teflon Partnership
Ward Churchill
My Trial By Media: Turning Quibbles Over Footnotes into Felonies
Rev. William E. Alberts
Decoding the Coders of Christ: Jesus the Political Insurgent?
Website of the Day
Marines Iraq Snuff Film
June 13, 2006
Medea Benjamin
Take
Back America Suppresses Anti-War Dissenters at HRC Speech
Anthony Alessandrini
The
Evil of Banality: the General, the New York Times and the Gitmo
Suicides
Paul D'Amato
The
Meaning of Haditha
Dave Lindorff
The Strange Death of Zarqawi: Was He Killed So He Wouldn't Talk?
John Ross
Elections and the World Cup: If Team Mexico Advances, Will Anyone
Show Up to Vote for Lopez Obrador?
Gabriel Garcia
Venezuela and Drug Trafficking: Bush Bashes Chavez Despite Positive
Results
Hilton Obenzinger
DIvestment is a Stand for Equality in Israel
Yitzhak Laor
The Secret of Authority
Juan Antonio Ocasio
Rivera
Puerto Rico at the UN
Jennifer Van Bergen
The
Story Behind Zarqawi's Death: What's the Legality of the Assassination?
Website of the Day
Paul Wright: a Real American Freedom Fighter
June 12, 2006
Paul Craig Roberts
Bush's
Armageddon Wish: a Final End to History?
Patrick Cockburn
The
US Already Misses Zarqawi
Mike Marqusee
Rebranding
a Team: English Nationalism and the World Cup
Lee Sustar
"I
Never Had the American Dream:" Left with No Future by GM and
Delphi
Robert Fisk
Has
Racism Invaded Canada?
Michael J. Smith
Enter Sandman; Exit Kosland
Felice Pace
NPR's Warped Covereage of the MIddle East
Jennifer Loewenstein
Setting
the Record Straight on Hamas
Website of the Day
Our Way Home
June 10 / 11, 2006
Weekend Edition
Robert Fisk
Zarqawi's
End is not a Famous Victory
Diane Christian
Zarqawi's Face
Joe Allen
The American Way of Atrocities: Marine Corps' Killer Virtues
Ralph Nader
Let Us All Praise the Dixie Chicks
Fred Gardner
Tylenol Toxicity Terror
Dave Lindorff
Nothing New About Haditha
Dave Zirin / John
Cox
Will Racism Spoil the World Cup?
Dennis Perrin
Death is Patriotic: Necro-Porn, Live on CNN
Greg Moses
Militarizing the Border: Why Operation Jump Start Worries Me
John Chuckman
Terror in Toronto or Tempest in a Teapot?
Michael J. Smith
Babes in Kosland: Dem Blogfest, Day Two
Roger Burbach
Bachelet in DC: Chilean President Refuses to Back Down to Bush
Ira Moskowitz
Israeli Court Finds Mad-Dog US Prof Libeled CounterPuncher Neve
Gordon
Sam Bahour
The Gaza Air Strikes: Begging for a Response
Seth Sandronsky
Grocery Chains and Bush's Ownership Society: Profits Fall, Stores
Close
Michael Berg
A Father's Day Message: Both Parties Have Betrayed America
Kirsten Roberts
Desmond Dekker and the Music of the Shantytowns
Ron Jacobs
Who's Fooling Who?
Jeffrey St. Clair
Playlist: What I'm Listening to This Week
Poets' Basement
Jones, Davies, Engel and Louise
Website of the Weekend
Miles and Trane, So What?
| July 22-23, 2006
Elegy for Beirut
By ROBERT FISK
BEIRUT -- In the year 551, the magnificent, wealthy city of Berytus - headquarters of the imperial East Mediterranean Roman fleet - was struck by a massive earthquake. In its aftermath, the sea withdrew several miles and the survivors - ancestors of the present-day Lebanese - walked out on the sands to loot the long-sunken merchant ships revealed in front of them.
That was when a tidal wall higher than a tsunami returned to swamp the city and kill them all. So savagely was the old Beirut damaged that the Emperor Justinian sent gold from Constantinople as compensation to every family left alive.
Some cities seem forever doomed. When the Crusaders arrived at Beirut on their way to Jerusalem in the 11th century, they slaughtered every man, woman and child in the city. In the First World War, Ottoman Beirut suffered a terrible famine; the Turkish army had commandeered all the grain and the Allied powers blockaded the coast. I still have some ancient postcards I bought here 30 years ago of stick-like children standing in an orphanage, naked and abandoned.
An American woman living in Beirut in 1916 described how she "passed women and children lying by the roadside with closed eyes and ghastly, pale faces. It was a common thing to find people searching the garbage heaps for orange peel, old bones or other refuse, and eating them greedily when found. Everywhere women could be seen seeking eatable weeds among the grass along the roads..."
How does this happen to Beirut? For 30 years, I've watched this place die and then rise from the grave and then die again, its apartment blocks pitted with so many bullets they looked like Irish lace, its people massacring each other.
I lived here through 15 years of civil war that took 150,000 lives, and two Israeli invasions and years of Israeli bombardments that cost the lives of a further 20,000 of its people. I have seen them armless, legless, headless, knifed, bombed and splashed across the walls of houses. Yet they are a fine, educated, moral people whose generosity amazes every foreigner, whose gentleness puts any Westerner to shame, and whose suffering we almost always ignore.
They look like us, the people of Beirut. They have light-coloured skin and speak beautiful English and French. They travel the world. Their women are gorgeous and their food exquisite. But what are we saying of their fate today as the Israelis - in some of their cruellest attacks on this city and the surrounding countryside - tear them from their homes, bomb them on river bridges, cut them off from food and water and electricity? We say that they started this latest war, and we compare their appalling casualties - 240 in all of Lebanon by last night - with Israel's 24 dead, as if the figures are the same.
And then, most disgraceful of all, we leave the Lebanese to their fate like a diseased people and spend our time evacuating our precious foreigners while tut-tutting about Israel's "disproportionate" response to the capture of its soldiers by Hizbollah.
I walked through the deserted city centre of Beirut yesterday and it reminded more than ever of a film lot, a place of dreams too beautiful to last, a phoenix from the ashes of civil war whose plumage was so brightly coloured that it blinded its own people. This part of the city - once a Dresden of ruins - was rebuilt by Rafiq Hariri, the prime minister who was murdered scarcely a mile away on 14 February last year.
The wreckage of that bomb blast, an awful precursor to the present war in which his inheritance is being vandalised by the Israelis, still stands beside the Mediterranean, waiting for the last UN investigator to look for clues to the assassination - an investigator who has long ago abandoned this besieged city for the safety of Cyprus.
At the empty Etoile restaurant - best snails and cappuccino in Beirut, where Hariri once dined Jacques Chirac - I sat on the pavement and watched the parliamentary guard still patrolling the façade of the French-built emporium that houses what is left of Lebanon's democracy. So many of these streets were built by Parisians under the French mandate and they have been exquisitely restored, their mock Arabian doorways bejewelled with marble Roman columns dug from the ancient Via Maxima a few metres away.
Hariri loved this place and, taking Chirac for a beer one day, he caught sight of me sitting at a table. "Ah Robert, come over here," he roared and then turned to Chirac like a cat that was about to eat a canary. "I want to introduce you, Jacques, to the reporter who said I couldn't rebuild Beirut!"
And now it is being un-built. The Martyr Rafiq Hariri International Airport has been attacked three times by the Israelis, its glistening halls and shopping malls vibrating to the missiles that thunder into the runways and fuel depots. Hariri's wonderful transnational highway viaduct has been broken by Israeli bombers. Most of his motorway bridges have been destroyed. The Roman-style lighthouse has been smashed by a missile from an Apache helicopter. Only this small jewel of a restaurant in the centre of Beirut has been spared. So far.
It is the slums of Haret Hreik and Ghobeiri and Shiyah that have been levelled and "rubble-ised" and pounded to dust, sending a quarter of a million Shia Muslims to seek sanctuary in schools and abandoned parks across the city. Here, indeed, was the headquarters of Hizbollah, another of those "centres of world terror" which the West keeps discovering in Muslim lands. Here lived Sayed Hassan Nasrallah, the Party of God's leader, a ruthless, caustic, calculating man; and Sayad Mohamed Fadlallah, among the wisest and most eloquent of clerics; and many of Hizbollah's top military planners - including, no doubt, the men who planned over many months the capture of the two Israeli soldiers last Wednesday.
But did the tens of thousands of poor who live here deserve this act of mass punishment? For a country that boasts of its pin-point accuracy - a doubtful notion in any case, but that's not the issue - what does this act of destruction tell us about Israel? Or about ourselves?
In a modern building in an undamaged part of Beirut, I come, quite by chance, across a well known and prominent Hizbollah figure, open-neck white shirt, dark suit, clean shoes. "We will go on if we have to for days or weeks or months or..." And he counts these awful statistics off on the fingers of his left hand. "Believe me, we have bigger surprises still to come for the Israelis - much bigger, you will see. Then we will get our prisoners and it will take just a few small concessions."
I walk outside, feeling as if I have been beaten over the head. Over the wall opposite there is purple bougainvillaea and white jasmine and a swamp of gardenias. The Lebanese love flowers, their colour and scent, and Beirut is draped in trees and bushes that smell like paradise.
As for the huddled masses from the powder of the bombed-out southern slums of Haret Hreik, I found hundreds of them yesterday, sitting under trees and lying on the parched grass beside an ancient fountain donated to the city of Beirut by the Ottoman Sultan Abdul-Hamid. How empires fall.
Far away, across the Mediterranean, two American helicopters from the USS Iwo Jima could be seen, heading through the mist and smoke towards the US embassy bunker complex at Awkar to evacuate more citizens of the American Empire. There was not a word from that same empire to help the people lying in the park, to offer them food or medical aid.
And across them all has spread a dark grey smoke that works its way through the entire city, the fires of oil terminals and burning buildings turning into a cocktail of sulphurous air that moves below our doors and through our windows. I smell it when I wake in the morning. Half the people of Beirut are coughing in this filth, breathing their own destruction as they contemplate their dead.
The anger that any human soul should feel at such suffering and loss was expressed so well by Lebanon's greatest poet, the mystic Khalil Gibran, when he wrote of the half million Lebanese who died in the 1916 famine, most of them residents of Beirut:
My people died of hunger, and he who
Did not perish from starvation was
Butchered with the sword;
They perished from hunger
In a land rich with milk and honey.
They died because the vipers and
Sons of vipers spat out poison into
The space where the Holy Cedars and
The roses and the jasmine breathe
Their fragrance.
And the sword continues to cut its way through Beirut. When part of an aircraft - perhaps the wing-tip of an F-16 hit by a missile, although the Israelis deny this - came streaking out of the sky over the eastern suburbs at the weekend, I raced to the scene to find a partly decapitated driver in his car and three Lebanese soldiers from the army's logistics unit. These are the tough, brave non-combat soldiers of Kfar Chim, who have been mending power and water lines these past six days to keep Beirut alive.
I knew one of them. "Hello Robert, be quick because I think the Israelis will bomb again but we'll show you everything we can." And they took me through the fires to show me what they could of the wreckage, standing around me to protect me.
And a few hours later, the Israelis did come back, as the men of the small logistics unit were going to bed, and they bombed the barracks and killed 10 soldiers, including those three kind men who looked after me amid the fires of Kfar Chim.
And why? Be sure - the Israelis know what they are hitting. That's why they killed nine soldiers near Tripoli when they bombed the military radio antennas. But a logistics unit? Men whose sole job was to mend electricity lines? And then it dawns on me. Beirut is to die. It is to be starved of electricity now that the power station in Jiyeh is on fire. No one is to be allowed to keep Beirut alive. So those poor men had to be liquidated.
Beirutis are tough people and are not easily moved. But at the end of last week, many of them were overcome by a photograph in their daily papers of a small girl, discarded like a broken flower in a field near Ter Harfa, her feet curled up, her hand resting on her torn blue pyjamas, her eyes - beneath long, soft hair - closed, turned away from the camera. She had been another "terrorist" target of Israel and several people, myself among them, saw a frightening similarity between this picture and the photograph of a Polish girl lying dead in a field beside her weeping sister in 1939.
I go home and flick through my files, old pictures of the Israeli invasion of 1982. There are more photographs of dead children, of broken bridges. "Israelis Threaten to Storm Beirut", says one headline. "Israelis Retaliate". "Lebanon At War". "Beirut Under Siege". "Massacre at Sabra and Chatila".
Yes, how easily we forget these earlier slaughters. Up to 1,700 Palestinians were butchered at Sabra and Chatila by Israel's proxy Christian militia allies in September of 1982 while Israeli troops - as they later testified to Israel's own court of inquiry - watched the killings. I was there. I stopped counting the corpses when I reached 100. Many of the women had been raped before being knifed or shot.
Yet when I was fleeing the bombing of Ghobeiri with my driver Abed last week, we swept right past the entrance of the camp, the very spot where I saw the first murdered Palestinians. And we did not think of them. We did not remember them. They were dead in Beirut and we were trying to stay alive in Beirut, as I have been trying to stay alive here for 30 years.
I am back on the sea coast when my mobile phone rings. It is an Israeli woman calling me from the United States, the author of a fine novel about the Palestinians. "Robert, please take care," she says. "I am so, so sorry about what is being done to the Lebanese. It is unforgivable. I pray for the Lebanese people, and the Palestinians, and the Israelis." I thank her for her thoughtfulness and the graceful, generous way she condemned this slaughter.
Then, on my balcony - a glance to check the location of the Israeli gunboat far out in the sea-smog - I find older clippings. This is from an English paper in 1840, when Beirut was a great Ottoman city. "Beyrouth" was the dateline. "Anarchy is now the order of the day, our properties and personal safety are endangered, no satisfaction can be obtained, and crimes are committed with impunity. Several Europeans have quitted their houses and suspended their affairs, in order to find protection in more peaceable countries."
On my dining-room wall, I remember, there is a hand-painted lithograph of French troops arriving in Beirut in 1842 to protect the Christian Maronites from the Druze. They are camping in the Jardin des Pins, which will later become the site of the French embassy where, only a few hours ago, I saw French men and women registering for their evacuation. And outside the window, I hear again the whisper of Israeli jets, hidden behind the smoke that now drifts 20 miles out to sea.
Fairouz, the most popular of Lebanese singers, was to have performed at this year's Baalbek festival, cancelled now like all Lebanon's festivals of music, dance, theatre and painting. One of her most popular songs is dedicated to her native city:
To Beirut - peace to Beirut with all my heart
And kisses - to the sea and clouds,
To the rock of a city that looks like an old sailor's face.
From the soul of her people she makes wine,
From their sweat, she makes bread and jasmine.
So how did it come to taste of smoke and fire?
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